12V or 24V 30A MOSFET Hot Bed Power Expansion Board with Cooling Fan Heating Controller High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Heated Bed
$17.99
Price: $17.99
(as of Feb 03, 2025 15:01:27 UTC – Details)
Note: Please mare sure the connecting is right according to the picture before power on, or the board could be damaged.
Packing list:
1 * Heating Controller (12V / 24V Over 30A) for 3D Printer Hot Bed
1 * Cable for hot bed signal 30cm ( From hot bed output port on mainboard to control-in on MOSFET heating controller board)
Package Dimensions : 4.85 x 3.03 x 1.65 inches; 3.99 ounces
Date First Available : January 20, 2021
Manufacturer : ReliaBot
ASIN : B08YZ4W4LN
Voltage: 12V to 24V; Max Current: Over 30A
Maximum power of the heated bed: Over 360W (12V) or 720W (24V)
Make sure that the cables from the controller board to hotbed can withstand high current
Thermal paste has been applied between the heat sink and MOSFET chip. The fan will further cool down the chip, so the MOSFET controller can work better under high current than other controllers.
We recommend using a 24V power supply when using a heat bed with high current
Customers say
Customers find the mechanical components functional and easy to install. They consider them a good value for money, a sturdy upgrade to most OEM heatbeds, and a good cheap replacement. However, opinions differ on their heat resistance.
AI-generated from the text of customer reviews
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$17.99
sumguy –
Working perfectly with my brushless air pump
I bought the 25A module to drive a 15A brushless air pump in a berd style part cooler. It’s working perfectly. The JST connector made it so easy to connect and the fan output of my TwoTrees SKR E3 DIP has no trouble driving it.
Pedro –
Fixed cr10 mini
Good cheap replacement
Samuel Wilkinson –
Worked well for Monoprice Maker Select
This worked well to upgrade my monoprice maker select. This would also work on wanhao i3 models
Julian –
Needs thermal paste!
You need to install thermal paste under the heatsink! Came packaged well with a decent length of wire. Was a pretty simple install in an Anycubic i3 Mega. Other than the absence of thermal paste, the unit is well designed and heated bed temps are much more stable. Would recommend for any 3d printer that doesnt include a mosfet
M –
Replacement for CR-10S mosfet.
I used this to replace the mosfet on my CR-10S and it has worked great with some changes to the original wiring. I would recommend this for anyone who needs a replacement for their CR-10 style printer. You do need to add the thermal paste yourself when it arrives, it isn’t difficult but make sure you do it.
Jae Reese –
JUNK
i purchased 2 of them. used less than a month…neither of them work anymore. less than 2 months, if that long.
Robert Serpa –
Much better than stock board.
This is a worthwile and sturdy upgrade to most any OEM heatbed control board. The fan only runs when the heated bed is running. The mosfet used is a known reliable part.
SierraQ –
Solved my 3D printer melting relay problem
I have a 12â heat bed that had a cheap built in relay that melted after a few ABS prints. This unit runs very cool, allows for PWM control, and can handle the high loads my printer demands.I recommend 12 gauge wire to the power supply. 14 got uncomfortably warm for my taste. Make sure you look carefully for the +- markings as they are almost hidden under the wire clamp.Some have said that the heat sync didnât have thermal paste. I think mine did, but not much. I had some extra so I added a little more just in case.The red heat sync adds a nice aesthetic!